Sunday, December 31, 2017

Days 184-185 - Carrabelle or The Crossing


We landed at The Moorings in Carrabelle, FL in preparation to cross the Gulf of Mexico to Tarpon Springs. We were indoctrinated to the not so popular, but very common Florida docks.  They have very short, narrow "finger piers" - 2 feet wide and about 8 feet long.  This requires you to back in to the slip and climb over the rail to get off the boat!  Very difficult to tie the boat up as well. On top of that, the lines for both our boat and the one next to us cross over the 3 stairs going up to the wall so it's like playing chinese jump rope getting ashore!  No skirts for me this trip!

Preparing for the “big” crossing is an event all Loopers plan for/dread/anticipate for weeks. It is a 20 hour crossing from Carrabelle to Tarpon Springs (near Tampa) considered the shortest route straight across.   For slow boats like our's, it takes around 20 hours to cross.  The idea is to leave in the daylight and arrive in the daylight (not only to see the dock but avoid all the crab pots in shallower waters) and traveling across the open area in the dark. Some Loopers opt to “go around the bend”, taking three days to go around rather than across. The problem with that is finding a three day weather window to safely go that direction. This proved to be difficult at the time we arrived at Carrabelle. Most Loopers subscribe to “Eddy’s Weather Wag” for their crossing information. Eddy is a Looper himself and considered the local expert on weather. He sends emails every day with the upcoming safe crossing information. There are several other sources that people use and try for the best case scenario in an ever changing Gulf. Our friends on Angel Louise were so tired of the cold weather we’d been having that they decided to cross and hope for the best. They had one very rough crossing but are now enjoying the warm sands of Florida. When we first arrived at Carrabelle, Eddy didn’t have much hope that we would cross before Christmas, but a small window developed for Monday night and several of us decided to “jump”. Meanwhile, we enjoyed the town of Carrabelle.  We met a marvelous couple that had been in our boat slip prior to our arriving.  He helped us secure our boat which was no little task.  They had just had their boat hauled out to have some repairs done.  They do mission work (mostly marriage workshops) in the Bahamas on their time off of work.  We went out to dinner with them to one of their favorite restaurants and I tried Grouper for the first time!  My grouper looked like regular fish and chips but our new friend ordered the whole grouper.  Quite impressive, don't you think?

Carrabelle is a quiet little town without much there.  They do lay claim to the world's smallest police station.  The policemen would sit in their parked car next to the phone booth to do their paperwork and jump out of the car to take phone calls!

Like most cities we've seen along the waterway, Carrabelle has a tribute to all who served in the Armed Forces.  This was a very unusual one in the small statues representing each of the services.  

We stopped at C-Quarters, the other marina in town and met Donna on Gold Looper boat Syzygy. Her husband was off the boat visiting his brother.  We also had fun reuniting with fellow Loopers Grace and Emily on Elpis, Mary & Tim on Nellie Mae and their new buddy boat - Miss Norma with owners Tim, Remi, and poodle Ringo, and new Loopers Margaret & Denny on Paradise Cafe.  Miss Norma's family has become famous in 2016 when they took to the road in an RV with Tim's mom to celebrate life before the cancer took her.  Check out their book Driving Miss Norma for a great read!  They have sold their RV and bought a boat to continue the travels doing the Loop! We had a lovely potluck with everyone before we left the next day with Tortuga.

We left Carrabelle at 3 PM in sunny, warm weather. People were out enjoying the sun and sand.


One of the last houses we will see in many hours, and it is a beauty!


Notice the lower left corner of the chart plotter.  The bottom number gives the estimated amount of time, based on current speed, to our destination.  This is in fact over stated as we were going very slowly at this point, waiting for Tortuga to catch up to us but I've never seen it over one day before!  It was actually only 20 hours.


As soon as we entered the river, the water became choppy, which we expected from Eddy’s forecast. 

Here is Tortuga bouncing around behind us.


Eddy warned us that seas would be a little bumpy at first but should settle down in the evening. Sad to say, the Gulf did not listen to him and the seas did not settle down until early Tuesday morning. We’ve seen rougher seas, but as the swells were hitting us nearly broadside, this was not a comfortable crossing and we couldn’t even eat the dinner that I had prepared earlier in the day. As our friend Ed on Angel Louise says “I fed the fishies”! First time ever for me. I took over the helm for Bob at 9:30 so he could try and sleep (he couldn’t). Tortuga was following us and we would contact each other on the radio every half hour. We had the radar on and watched for any lights signifying either another boat or an obstruction in the water. We saw a few towers in the distance, but otherwise no one else was around. About midnight a fog rolled in and we couldn’t even see lights anymore, depending solely on the radar. The rough water finally calmed down sometime early morning. Sun rise was nearly 7 AM still in heavy fog. Luckily the fog lifted right as we entered the shallower water where most of the crab pots are. 

Sunrise in the fog.


This is Red 4 - the marker that denotes the end of the Gulf passage.  We still have several hours to our marina but the water is very calm now.


We begin to see boats again - even boats that don't seem to see us!  This guy seemed to want to cross where we crossed - every time we changed course, so did he!  We really thought he was a collision course with Tortuga, but they said there was plenty of room, but he still made them nervous!



The landscape is new and different again with small islands of low trees greeting us.

So glad that night is over. Our marina is right downtown, down a very long channel with a strict no wake zone - I don't think this guy cared!  He made a lot of people very mad.


The area looks so pretty and well manicured!


The houses are getting larger!


And the boats too!


Our slip in the marina has another small finger dock, but this one is safer to walk on - lines do not cross over the stairs :) We look forward to spending a week here, visiting with fellow Loopers,  as well as Andy and Evonne  (friends from our Navy days) and touring!

The Moorings Marine - Carrabelle, FL - Dec. 16 & 17 - with Tortuga, Miss Norma, Nellie Mae, Paradise Cafe, Elpis.  Met Syzergy at C Quarters.

Thursday, December 28, 2017

Days 277-283 Orange Beach to Appalachicola - Dolphins!

It is so good to be back on the water again.  The weather is cold but sunny.  We anchored out for 4 nights and then a town free dock at a park before we made it to Apalachicola.  It was still a bit nippy out but no longer freezing.
We made it to Florida!

And we finally have dolphins!!!
LOTS of dolphins!  They swim along side or, most often - at our bow.  Two of them are usually together and one will decide the other one has the better spot and will try and push him out of the way!  When they've had enough, watch them peel off together.

Sunset was a beautiful welcome back to the water.

And we're back to more beautiful homes.


Testing range control tower at Eglin AFB.  So unique!

We switch back and forth between open water and canals.

The sandy hills on the shore are obviously popular with the dirt bikes!  Seems like it would be hard to not land in the water.

Landscape has definitely changed back to salt water marshes.

This baby has seen happier days.

 It's amazing to see large ships in a seeming narrow area.

This guy swam along side of us for a while.

Apalachicola was a wonderful town to walk around.  This bike shop was an eye catcher with bicycles hanging from the trees and made into flowers along the front of the building.  I'm sorry the picture didn't come out better - it was such a fun, whimsical spot.

The town is an oystering town, built along the canal.  Most all the restaurants specialize in oysters, raw or cooked.  Too bad that's not on my diet :)

Nautical Christmas Tree

An oyster boat - are you moonlighting Terri Jones?

Signs of storm damage here too.

The tourist industry is alive and well in Apalachicola - houseboats for rent.

We took a self-guided walking tour of the town.

These businesses capitalized on the upstairs/downstairs theme!

Fort Coombs - built in 1901 has mobilized military personnel in WWI, WWII, Gulf War, and the War with Iraq.

Beautiful church

Some beautiful old homes - sometimes the verandas seemed larger than the house!

This house is for sale and it was all I could do not to call the real estate broker so I could see inside.

One of the oldest homes in town now a bed and breakfast.

A very novel way to carry a package!  I don't know how she could see where she was going!

Tomorrow is on to our last stop before the "jump" across the Gulf of Mexico :)

Anchored at Big Sabine, Florida - Dec. 10 
Anchored at Boggy Bayou, Florida - Dec. 11 & 12
Anchored at Burnt Mill Creek FL - Dec. 13
Free dock - White City FL - Dec. 14
Scipio Creek Marina - Apalachicola Dec. 15

Wednesday, December 27, 2017

Days 271-276 - Pensacola and Back to the boat

We sadly left New Orleans with still more that we would have liked to see and do, but it was time to get to Pensacola to meet with friends of friends that have been through the Panama Canal.  We checked in to the Navy Lodge and drove over to meet Bob and Marie.  They have cruised extensively and have been through the Panama Canal several times.  We picked their brains throughout a lovely dinner together.

We spent two days going through the Naval Aviation Museum on base just across the street from where we stayed at the Navy Lodge.  It was an excellent museum staffed by volunteers who have flown or worked on the planes for the Navy during their careers.  It is entirely funded through donations including a very generous one from the owner of Enterprise Car Rentals who was a Navy pilot on the Enterprise!  We learned so much my mind is still on overload.  Here are SOME of my favorites!

Outside is the "boneyard" = the planes that are waiting for the funds to be refurbished.  They find these shells all over the world.

One of the helicopters flown in Vietnam - he's watching you!

A stealth bomber

One of the first unmanned drones.  Doesn't it look like a little submarine with helicopter blades attached?

Papa Bear, Mama Bear, and Baby Bear

Inside was crammed with planes on the floor and suspended from the ceiling as well as displays, interactive exhibits, and videos.

A fascinating piece of history was the aircraft carrier.  When the Navy needed planes with a longer range, they hired a designer to build them a plane that would land on a ship.  He built the plane and a platform out of wood that would fit on the bow of a ship.  Incredible!

Can you believe this plane could land on the platform above?  It is amazing to me how fast the airplane industry advanced.

It is especially amazing to think that they were still using messenger pigeons in this evolving era.

We also learned all kinds of interesting facts and inventions that took place during the World Wars.

World War I saw huge improvements/changes and inventions in motor vehicles, the zeppelin, the first blood bank, cosmetic surgery, prosthetics, zippers, tea bags, and stainless steel.  We also learned that the Spanish Flu killed more people world wide than the Great War.  Estimated 50-100 million people died from the virus.

Back to the airplanes - we saw training "planes" that would do loops and rolls and "crashes" without injuring the pilot - although many came out quite ill!  They don't look all that impressive, but I wouldn't want to try it!

I did try out a real cockpit though :)

The most surprising part of the day was in a small exhibit that simulates being on the deck of an aircraft carrier.  While we were waiting for the film to start we hear "Gail!" and turn to see our friends Andy and Evonne.  We met them first nearly 40 years ago in Misawa, Japan where Andy and Bob were stationed.  We have kept in touch, although in person only a few times here and there.  We knew they lived near Tampa and had planned on seeing them when we got there, but were blessed to have a sneak preview!  The staff at the museum took full credit for "planning" the reunion :)

After seeing all those marvelous man-made "birds", we exit the museum to see God's beautiful version.

We headed back to Orange Beach to see how the boat was getting along.
This is a NEAT roller coaster along the way!

We really didn't expect them to have it all done by the estimated day of Friday.   There was still a lot to do but they were still saying it would be done.  We could have stayed on the boat that night but as it was below freezing and we had no heat while it was out of the water, we opted for one more night in the hotel.
She looks so pretty after her bottom job and her "mustache" removed.

Here's her new zincs and refurbished propellers.


We had dinner at Lulu's - Jimmy Buffet sister's restaurant.  We had live music and wonderful shrimp and grits - who ever thought that I'd eat (and like) grits!!

Friday those poor guys worked in the freezing rain to get our boat back in the water.  I made the guys some brownies fresh out of the oven to warm up their spirits.  We got back in the water and into a slip so they could keep an eye on us overnight.  Leaks on a boat are not good!  We had a minor leak that turned out to be a bad water hose - nothing to do with the work they did!  They didn't even charge us labor to fix it - just the parts :) . Since it was soooo cold and we were going to be anchoring out we decided to spend one last night in the marina with heat before heading out.

Docked at Orange Beach Marina - Dec. 8th and 9th

Back on the journey tomorrow!