Tuesday, March 13, 2018

Green Turtle Cay


Welcome

We stayed at Leeward Yacht Club and Marina for a week.  It is a tiny marina, but well maintained with good, friendly service.

The Good Life is the first boat to the left of the dock.

marina

We were warned that the bathroom facilities in the Bahamas were third world quality so were quite pleasantly surprised to find nicer facilities than we found in many state side marinas.  There were two private restrooms, each with their own shower and very clean.  One even had a beautiful display of a seashore.

restroom

The marina has a lovely salt water swimming pool…

pool

and had just bought a pump out system – the first one on the island – and we were the inaugural pump out! Usually people take their boats out to the open water and dump their holding tanks.

First pump out ever for Green Turtle Cay!

Mike and Judy on Blue Yonder III were docked near us and we enjoyed sightseeing with them.

blue yonder

New Plymouth is the little town on the island – population around 400. 

new plymouth

You can walk, dinghy, bike, or rent a golf cart to get there.  We did all but walk – there was enough walking once you got there!

We rented this one evening to visit Lois and Glenn on Ensenel.  Golf carts are the main form of transportation on the island although there is the odd pickup truck or car.

golf cart

The bicycles we borrowed from the marina for free.  I’m still unsteady but improving.  I think this sign is understating the narrowness of the “road”.  I wouldn’t even ride the bike on it.  I got off and walked.  Bob, obviously is braver (and more steady) than I!

bicycle

The town is old – settled in 1786 by Loyalists after the Revolutionary War.  The island is made up mostly of limestone and very little soil so it was difficult making a living and many returned to the states (many to the Florida Keys), moved to England, or other islands.  The remaining settlers occupations changed through the years, with a different major industry seemly for each generation.

A picture of the town circa 1850. 

1800's picture

Not much has changed – this is one of the three grocery stores – each one has about 3 aisles. Notice the lack of cars on the street – this is wide enough for two golf carts.  Many streets are wide enough for only one.

street

This building no longer looks inhabited but we couldn’t tell for sure.

old inn

The spit of land the town is located on is so narrow you can see water on both sides

From our right (look close and you can see the dock at the end of the street)…

street 3

to our left.

street 2

The houses were small but colorful.

home

Nearly all of them seemed to have chickens and a generator.  The electricity was so intermittent we weren’t too surprised.  Later we talked to a local who said surprisingly few people had generators. 

House 1

Scattered throughout the town are houses abandoned due to storm damage or just old age.

old home

The locals were very friendly.  This young man came up to talk to us while we were eating lunch and did some showing off on his bicycle for us.

local boy

This is where we were eating lunch – I told you it is a colorful area! That is Mike sitting in front, waiting for their “take away” (take out) lunch order, which he then took back to the phone company office.  He and Judy were waiting to get their Bahamian phone activated.  It is only open one day a week and because of the combination of the large influx of cruisers, plus the fact it didn’t open last week, Mike and Judy had to wait several hours to get their phone. We ate cracked conch (kind of like fried squid in taste and texture) and fries.  Another favorite local side dish is “peas and rice” – rice cooked with onions, brown sauce, and a type of pea/bean.  It didn’t excite me but its OK.

Two

While we were eating at the picnic table (under cover thankfully) a sudden storm kicked up!  We enjoyed watching the rain pelt down and the palm trees blow.

rain storm

palm

Some restaurants offer beach seating!

service on the beach

One of my favorite places to visit in nearly every place we go is the cemetery (are my children surprised?). Green Turtle’s cemetery was no exception. It is located on a bluff above the water – exquisite!

cemetery

The comparison from old to new is striking.  Notice the deteriorating grave in the the background.  Some still had plain wooden crosses.  I dearly hope there is a record some where! 

grave

One of the more recent graves shows the love of a life at sea.

grave 2

“Ye Olde Gaol” – steps up to the roof for????

jail

We haven’t found any good beaches for shells yet but there is evidence that they are here.

A pile of discarded conch (pronounced “konk”).

conch

Conch shells are used to line gardens, driveways, and to decorate walls!

conch 2

Other unique decorations adorn some trees.

decorations

All the islands in the Bahamas are comparatively narrow with the open Atlantic on the east side and the more protected waters to the west.  It’s fun to go watch the waves on the east side.

ocean

As I noted before, the grocery stores here are small.  They are also quite expensive due to the combination of limited farming capacity and the difficulty of getting the supplies to the islands. This is the delivery dock where the ships can deliver goods to the island.  Note the new refrigerators ready to be picked up by their new owners.

delivery dock

One local farmer has begun a new venture providing fresh greens to the community.  It is a single pass drip irrigation system.  He opens it twice a week to the public when you go in a “pick your own”. He charges by the pound and offers a selection of lettuces, a few cherry tomatoes, bok choy, and a few herbs.  He also brings in special items such as coconuts once in a while.  It is so nice to eat a salad again!

garden

Most cruisers have their own mode of transportation to and from their boat. The majority have a dinghy of some variety to get back and forth.  This one is especially colorful as well as memorable.  The parent boat is “Dalmatian” (the captain was a fireman).

Boat name is Dalmatian

This lovely little family is from Maine, cruising with their three young sons, coming into town in their inflatable Kayak.  They use my favorite form of homeschooling where the world becomes your classroom! They were studying water currents today.

kyak

The locals use the ferry system to and from work.  Cruisers also use the ferry for short hops to another part of the island or a neighboring island. These little boats whip in and out of the dock at amazing speed.

ferry

We loved staying at Green Turtle but new horizons await, so when the winds calm down, we move on.  Blue Yonder will join us at Hope Town but meanwhile takes pictures of us as we leave them behind for a few days.

Leaving Leeward Yacht Club


Docked at Leeward Yacht Club, Green Turtle Cay, Bahamas – 2/18-2/24/18 with Blue Yonder III

Thursday, March 8, 2018

West End to Green Turtle Cay

If I were to describe the Bahamas with one word, it would be “colorful”. From the color of the water, the sky, the flowers, and the houses, there is beautiful color everywhere.  The first color we noticed, and the Bahamas is known for, is the water.  Bob called me outside when we were nearing the Bahamas to see the color of the water change. I mentioned before how the depth changed dramatically, and so too did the water color.  The next thing I noticed was the colorful buildings at West End.  This turned out to be consistent throughout our travels so far.  One of my friends jokingly asked if painting a house white would be considered a crime!  The third difference took me awhile to pin point as we traveled along the coast lines of the the islands.  I knew something was different about the houses we were seeing and it wasn’t just the style of the homes (there is a distinctive Bahamian style).  It finally dawned on me that all the roofs are white!  In a land of color, the white roofs reflect the heat off the homes.  Quite startling in the bright sunshine as we cruise along.
If you look closely you can see the pastel colors of the buildings, but from a distance in the bright sunlight, all is white, white, white!
white roofs
When we arrived in West End, there were only a few boats in the marina. It looked a lot different that evening – full of boats! We left West End after just one night in order to get to Green Turtle Cay’s protective harbor before the next blow arrived. In the middle of the picture you can see Blue Yonder III pulling out to follow us.
west end
Judy, in turn, got a picture of us under way. Bob is huddled over to the side of the fly bridge to escape the heat of the sun. Notice our wake spreading out to the side as we move through the water.
Good life
The water is shallow and clear but we are surprised at the lack of sea life.
water
Sometimes it was hard to see the difference between water and sky.
water and sky
We spent our second night in the Bahamas anchored off of Great Sale Cay.  This is a popular anchoring spot with several protected bays.  There were many of us anchored here as well as our new friends Judy and Mike on Blue Yonder III and Glenn and Lois on Ensenel.
anchorage
We all took our first swim in the clear water of the Bahamas shortly after we arrived.
Bob is wearing a “skin” not a wet suit.  This is to protect him from sunburn as well as accidentally brushing again something irritating like coral or a jelly fish. (We didn’t see either here)
bob
We found a few shells here and there but not much on our first swim other than we are here and have broken in our new snorkel gear. 
There was an exquisite sunset to rival the sunrise we saw on our way to the Bahamas. As we watched we heard at least two conch shells being blown to celebrate the sunset.  Later we found out one of them was blown by Glenn on Ensenel.
sunset
After dinner both couples dinghied over to play some games and get to know each other.  We love to find out the history behind boat names and Ensenel did not disappoint.  Glenn and Lois have two sons – Ben and Ken, so all the men in their family are “ens” and Lois is the “L”.  Glenn catches nearly a fish a day out here without a fishing rod!  He rigs up a spool with a line and a fancy combination of bungee cord and rubber band, then throws the line in the water behind the boat with a hook and bait to trail behind the boat as they cruise.  The rubber band breaks when a fish bites and they haul it in!  They have caught a Wahoo and a barracuda so far.
The three of us all headed to Green Turtle Cay the next morning along with the rest of the world too!  We have never traveled with so many boats at once.  The theme here is to get somewhere safe before the next blow hits.
This boat passed us during the voyage.  Ursula Minor is a ocean going motor sailer.  Their son likes to ride in the crows nest.  He enjoyed posing for me.
Ursula Minor
Lunch time brought him down though! Forgive the sideways video, I can’t figure out how to rotate it.


I love how you can see through their bow wave in this clear water.
wave
We arrived at Green Turtle Cay and many of the boats including Ensenel entered “White Sound” where there are two marinas. Most of the rest of us went on to “Black Sound” where there are several more marinas, mooring balls, and anchorages.  We opted for a marina as we weren’t sure how the strong winds would affect the water in the harbor. 
Shortly after we docked, Judy popped over with a birthday present for me! What sweet friends we find!
birthday
The only thing that could make it better would be to be with my family!  Thanks, Judy!!
birthday2

Tomorrow – exploring Green Turtle Cay

Anchored Great Sale Cay, Bahamas – 2/17/18 with Ensenel and Blue Yonder III – game night on The Good Life
Docked Leeward Yacht Club, Green Turtle Cay, Bahamas 2/18-2/24/18

Stuart to West End, Bahamas

We left Stuart and traveled to Lake Worth in West Palm Beach where we met up with our buddy boat for the Bahama crossing. Mike and Judy on Blue Yonder III came over that afternoon to meet up and plan our strategy for the morning.  We “met” over the email forum we both belong to when they were looking for buddy boats to cross with that travel about the same speed they do.  It was a bonus to discover they are from Vancouver, Canada – not more than an hour from where we lived in Bellingham!  We decided to leave at 4:30 AM so as to arrive in West End, Bahamas mid afternoon since we knew we would need to check in with customs when we arrived.  None of us were looking forward to the early morning, c’est la vie!
The morning came too early of course, but we soon found out that we were not the only ones who chose the early morning departure.  It had been over a week since the last decent crossing and the window was only going to last a few days so there was quite a parade of us going across. The hardest part was our departure in the dark.  We really relied on our radar – so many boats around us.  Blessedly the inlet to the ocean was not too rough and we were able get around the slower sailboats after we were out of the inlet. We learned a lot about the Gulf Stream.  The current in the stream is so strong that it pushes you off your course unless you have a powerful engine (we do not).  There are several tactics to choose from, but we decided to let the stream carry us north then adjusted our course accordingly when we made it across the stream.  The water was fairly calm as predicted.  We had 3 foot swells with a good interval between them.  It’s a little rolly but not bad at all.  As we got closer to the Bahamas and the water gets shallow (from more than 2,800 feet to 20 feet!), we had some choppy waves but nothing to complain about.  Bob saw several wonderful sights but it was never long enough for me to get a picture.  He saw a whale surface and blow, and lots of flying fish. We both saw a cool little fish dance across the surface of the water on his tail. The only description I found that is similar is the flying fish – escaping its predator.  We actually made the journey a little faster than anticipated and arrived at West End (Old Bahama Bay Marina) at 2:00.  It took about 45 minutes to check in and we were free to relax.  The marina was nearly empty when we arrived but nearly full by dinner time.  Many, many fishing boats!  A sailboat pulled in next to us shortly after we did and we were pleased to make their acquaintance – especially when they offered a nice large piece of Wahoo (fish) they caught on the way over.  Judy and Mike came over for dinner and cooked the fish for us since I had no clue how to prepare it.  They said it is even better just seared but Bob prefers his meat cooked all the way so they humored us.  It was still very delicious – more like steak than fish! 
We are off to Great Sale anchorage in the morning so enjoy the pictorial journey below!

As we departed Stuart we had a constant parade of dolphins that followed us for quite a while.  At one time we had 6 around us but I wasn’t fast enough with the camera.  I did catch 4 of them together.
dolphins
I also caught these two on video.  They kept a good eye on me to make sure I appreciated their antics!  Watch as they twist their bodies to look up at me.

The houses got bigger
big house
and bigger
houses
and some had their own peninsula
houses2
or island…
houses3
and many had their own boat…
house and boat
Or even their own floating palace!
bigger boat2
This house caught my eye while I was on the phone to my granddaughter, Lila Belle.  I had to put her on hold to take the picture.  Isn’t it a pretty one, Lila?
houses4
While there were small boats around…
kayaks
and a variety of larger boats
lots of boats
there were lots, and lots, and lots of BIG boats!
more boats
and quite a few bigger boats!
bigger boat
Even the trees grow big!
tree
We passed under Juniper Bridge – we could have gone under without it being raised, but the sailboats ahead of us couldn’t.  The current is swift here and we were glad no one had to wait long to get through.  Our friends on Angel Louise nearly lost their mast several years ago here when the bridge failed to open as promised.  Thankfully they squeaked through just as it started to open.
Juniper Bridge
The trip wasn’t all houses and boats.  We traveled for a short while through a canal…
country
out into some open water…
country2
Saw some fun pelicans…
pelicans
a neat lighthouse
lighthouse
a popular anchorage
anchorage
and finally made to to Lake Worth to meet up with our buddy boat Blue Yonder III to plan for our crossing in the morning!
blue yonder
Did you notice the ship on the right? Nothing like making us feel tiny!
DSCN4134
We were well on our way when the sun rose, and what a beautiful sight it was!
sunrise
I even got a video of it coming up.


We saw depths we’ve never seen before.  Bob said the deepest he saw was over 2,800 feet.
depth
Ever wonder what the ocean looks like?
ocean
Blue Yonder bouncing around behind us.
blue yonder2
And we have arrived!
west end
The buildings are so colorful!
west end2

Tomorrow our Bahama adventure begins!

Anchored at Lake Worth, FL – 2/14/18 with Blue Yonder
Docked at Old Bahama Bay Marina, West End, Grand Bahama Island, Bahamas – 2/15/18 with Blue Yonder and Ensenel